Like
every Peace Corps Volunteer, I’ve had moments of sheer elation living in Rwanda
and then two minutes later I find myself cursing the country in words that
would make a pirate blush. Emotional depressions are usually brought about by
differences in culture and can be what highlight a person’s experiences when
abroad. It’s easy to focus on the negatives, the differences, because those are
the things that draw attention to the contrasts of one’s beliefs and one’s
culture. Reading my blog, it’s maybe hard to understand that in general I am
happy in Rwanda but it’s true. Lots of people don’t understand that even though
we sign up for 27 months of service we can end our service at any time for
various reasons (medical, administrative differences, family/personal issues,
or simply for not being happy here). I’ve come close a couple of times to
calling it quits, but here I am. More cynical, more optimistic, more confused.
This post isn’t meant to show how I’m happy here but it’s about something that
brings to the light questions about equality. Who deserves it and where does it
come from?
Many
Rwandans see themselves as inferior to whites because of the differences in
development between African countries and Western countries. They believe there
to be a direct correlation between Rwanda’s development and their innate
qualities. If they were truly as intelligent and talented as white people then
they too would have the same quality of living. For whatever reason, they don’t
want to see things differently. I’ve been told that when God created men and
women (s)he created blacks first and then worked on whites. With the whites
(s)he took care to improve on the mistakes made with blacks, which is why we’re
more intelligent, have finer features and have more development. This isn’t
just some isolated incident. My students have even made such claims to me,
trying to explain away their faults as a result of their innate shortcomings.
They fail to see themselves as anything but victims of innate failure from a
higher source.
A
big question I’ve had to answer a lot in my time here is why Africa suffers
disproportionately higher rates of HIV infections compared to other continents.
I’ve heard countless stories about the origins of the virus, with made in a laboratory in the US ranking
in at the top. I’ve tried, usually in vain, to explain that science is quite
certain of its origins coming from monkeys in central Africa somewhere and
cultural behavior, like having unprotected sex with many partners, contributing
significantly to the rapid spread. Overly simplified of course but if I even
try to say something like this then I get all sorts of conspiracy theories
thrown at me and I’m immediately on the defensive.
This
highlights to me their unwillingness to accept, or at the least consider, the
possibility of something opposite to their beliefs or ways of thinking. It’s
not an introspective culture. They don’t reflect on the how or the why. They just
accept, even if there’s no scientific proof to justify their beliefs. This
culture is very much about maintaining the status quo. With simple behavioral
changes they could greatly reduce the spread of HIV yet they fail to act on
these things. It’s more important to maintain their lives as they are without
thinking about the consequences or the results of their actions.
Regarding
gender equality there are two opinions. One of the government which promotes
women in the workforce, women in business, women as equals to men. Then there’s
the opinion of everyone else, which promotes women in the kitchen, women
raising children, women as servants to men. Rwandans jump on any opportunity to
show how they are respecting gender equality but it’s all superficial. It’s not
genuine. There’s almost always a smirk on their smiles and sarcasm in their
voices. They sincerely don’t see women and men as the same. I was at a wedding
yesterday and had a talk with a fellow teacher from my school. I forget how we
got on the topic about respect and equality but he recited to me lines from the
Bible about how women were created to serve men. Wives must respect their husbands but husbands aren’t obligated to reciprocate
that respect. If physical force is required to make a wife respect her husband
than the end justifies the means.
This
is coming from both sides too, not just the male perspective. Girl students
marginalize themselves in the company of boys. They don’t participate with the
same frequency. They don’t make the same effort. That’s not to say that there
aren’t some diamonds in the rough, there are, but they are quite the exception
to the rule. Even at the all girls school that one person in my training group
teaches at has similar experiences. Girls there are disenfranchising
themselves, even without the company of boys. Girls at my school have commented
that they wouldn’t respect their husbands if they made less money than their
wives. How can a culture adopt a belief of equality when the ones who are
supposed to be supported are espousing opposing beliefs that keep them marginalized?
We
in the West have more development because, as Jared Diamond explains quite well
in Guns, Germs and Steel: The Fates of
Human Societies, of the environmental conditions, the flora, the fauna,
which made quick development possible. We’ve had our struggles with equality,
with race and gender, and we continue to have those struggles. But beliefs
about equality aren’t pillars of development. They’re tied into cultural mores.
People are all inherently talented the same as the other. The difference stems
from the cultural beliefs that inhibit the development of one’s potential. Until
people in any culture see, and believe,
that women and men are equals they won’t be able to move beyond the superficial
ideologies they’re told to adopt.
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